Andreoli Italian Grocer

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8880 E. Via Linda, Scottsdale

Giovanni Scorzo, who rocked us with regional Italian at Leccabaffi (which he has since sold) has opened Andreoli, a market-cum-restaurant cluttered with Italian wines, foodstuffs and antique tables and chairs. It's an entirely different kind of operation from Leccabaffi — no tablecloths, no formal service and for Giovanni, no stress. He stays busy all day — baking bread, making his own sausage and salumi as well as preparing panini, arancini, pizza, Caprese, breseola, carpaccio and a handful of terrific daily specials you must be sure to ask about. His pasta is outstanding (particularly the gnocchi and the Matriciana) as is his rotating selection of Italian desserts. Try the Zuppa Inglese or the Meringata (a dreamy confection of baked meringue, whipped cream, shaved chocolate and crushed hazelnuts). And if you're interested in not-so-local color, drop by on a Friday night, when Andreoli is jammed with jovial Italians, exchanging greetings and bantering in the mother tongue. Giovanni is right in there with them, stopping a second to tease or share a joke. He not only makes great Italian food but also has a great time doing it. There's a lesson in here somewhere. Lunch and dinner M-Sa. $-$$