GrainBelt GrillHouse

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302 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert

With its cascading water wall, elegant color scheme and baskets of pussywillows, this upscale haven for transplanted Midwesterners hardly looks like the sort of place that would turn out a perfect pork tenderloin sandwich (so big its edges lap well past the bun and over the plate). But it is, thanks to the extensive research efforts of Michael Savoie, who co-owns the restaurant with Diana Bavetz, and the talent of young chef Matt Ryan. In fact, if you're from Indiana or Iowa, you should probably stop reading this blurb and get yourself to GrainBelt right now. You won't find a better pork tenderloin this side of Sioux City. Now, let me be the first to add that not everything works. The St. Louis Toasted Ravioli, for example, are too thin and tough to be praiseworthy, while the meat loaf is just plain boring. But GrainBelt, which is named for the region it glorifies, is a work in progress, and together, Savoie and Ryan frequently tweak the recipes to satisfy their growing list of satisfied customers. The USDA choice, grain-fed steaks are very good, and the house-cut, two-bone pork chop from Iowa's White Marble Farms is downright amazing. Meanwhile, the Cincinnati 5-Way Chili is spot-on, and I'm told the same is true of the Reuben (a sandwich invented at a hotel in Omaha). This place is as likeable and sincere as, well, a Midwesterner. Lunch and dinner daily; Sunday brunch. $-$$$