Town Talk 2

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3509 N. 19th Avenue, Phoenix.

Charles and Chris Rideau, a father-and-son team with roots in Rideau Louisiana, have reprised a concept originated by Charles's father Burleigh back in 1949. The original Town Talk, which was located at 12th Street and Washington, closed in the 60s, but the same family recipes from those days are deftly executed here. The best thing on the menu is the St. Louis spare ribs, glistening with brick-red sauce possessing just enough heat to give your mouth a little glow. You'll also like the meaty rib tips (devoid of fat and gristle) and the moist pulled pork. Planks of house-made Creole fries, dusted with spices, are outstanding. Don't miss them. They're great dunked in Bubba beans, which tastes a lot like chili. And although it may seem odd to order catfish in a bbq joint, TT2's crunchy, cornmeal-dusted fillets are really very good. You've gotta save room for peach or blackberry cobbler (I favor the blackberry), and you'll be pleased to know that this sweet little place is as clean as whistle -- which is not exactly "normal" for a bbq joint. Lunch and early dinner, Tue-Sun. $