Sierra Bonita Grill

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6933 N. Seventh Street, Phoenix

Owned by Sheldon Knapp of Phoenix City Grill, Sierra Bonita is its Mexican-inflected sib, taking the hearty campfire cooking of the Old West and giving it a modern, sophisticated spin. With its wood-beamed ceilings, polished concrete floors and photos of ranching life, this dimly lit, low slung place is casual and comfortable, the sort of neighborhood hangout people turn to often for a variety of reasons. One of them would be the potent margaritas. Another would be the small patio -- roofed and misted to keep it cool. A third would be the excellent weekend brunch, offering chunky guac with chips and three salsas, quesadillas with huitlacoche, chilaquiles, stacked chicken enchiladas and a really interesting cowboy hash. For dessert -- always -- the dreamy buttermilk pie. Not-to-be-missed dinner entrees include buttermilk fried chicken, carne asada and anything involving pork. Lunch and dinner daily; Brunch Sat-Sun. $-$$$